Sucre

When we got to the bus station we got straight onto a bus to sucre for 1 pound 50p. So much for the blockade. The road to Sucre was actually proper scenic! There were trees and everything, something we hadn't seen for about a week. Eventually we saw where a earth barrier accross the road had been bulldozed, obviously one end of the blockade, and also various places where people had dug up a bit of the tarmac. When we got to the bus station we were even able to get a bus ticket to La Paz overnight on the next night just like we wanted! However our taxi to a hostal wasn't allowed into town due to police blockades, we eventually got pretty close and walked the rest of the way. Where we stayed was pretty swish looking, but lacking in hot water. We soon walked into the main square and saw many people milling around, waiting to make a march or protest, but not much happening yet, so we went and had another very nice dinner. Next day we wandered back to the square and this time there was lots going on, people gathered to protest about pensions, military marching bands playing (it was the day before Independence day) and shoe shine boys continually hasseling us. We bumped into the Irish girls from the mine in Potosi again, turned out they'd been delayed by washing not being ready and bits missing... more Bolivian Chaos. We had a wander round some other squares and streets - central Sucre was very nice looking. Then we went for some museums, which weren't open in the morning. Our first attempt to get into the natural history museum led us to the museum next door, an overpriced and crappy collection of some dead guys glitzy furniture. The natural history museum itself was at least cheap, with a motley collection of cross-eyed stuffed animals. Last up was the main attraction, the hall where the independence declaration was signed, now a museum. Unfortunately while we'd been in the other museums a long protest march had been heading throught he square letting of bangers. Now there was a rally going on right outside the museum so they wouldn't let us in. Eventually the orator gave up and we got in. We had the same "no English tour, Yes English tour, wait 30 mins, go there now" shennanigans before being led on what was an amazingly interesting and informative tour by a very professional guide, where we learned much about Bolivian history and current affairs. On our way out we took the opportunity to get our faces on local TV as one of the protest leaders was being interviewed and we just happened to walk past and grin like a couple of gringo idiots. Then it was off to the bus station where we dined on cold chips and colder rice before getting out bus. An Australian girl who'd been in out hostel in Potosi recognised Richard by his cough, and we also met a French couple again who'd been on our mine tour. We set of to overnight to La Paz on our nice comfy cama bus (with scabby blankets) with the threat of blockades once more in the air..

Photos:

Cathedral in the main Plaza.


Military band.


In the market.
(I may have better photos, but they're not all uploaded yet.

Potosi

The road from Uyunyi was scenic in a very barren and ugly way, interesting but not pretty. The journey was around 6 hours and we got to Potosi mid-afternoon. First job was to try and get a bus out to Sucre for the following evening. After a short hike with our packs and asking at about a hundred bus companies it became clear none would sell us a ticket, saying something about a national blockade. So we dediced to proceed to a hostel, the rather cosy Koala Den. There we found out we could do the mine trip the next day anyway as the miners had Sunday off, so we booked that up for Monday and found out a bit more about the strikes which were causing trouble, with many people upset at old Evo in the run up to a referendum that was happening on the 10th (today as I write this). That discovered Potosi had a very nice centre, even if the sprawl on the hills around was a bit ugly. I started to fell a little the effects of altidue as Potosi is the highest city in the world at 4060m and I'd stopped the pills. I remember that number as that night we had a very nice dinner at bar 4060. The next day we went in the morning to the Royal Mint. As the silver mine at Potosi financed the Spannish empire through much of it's glory days, much of it's coinage was minted here. After some confusion we eventually got a half-decent English tour (no English tour, English tour in 30 minutes, no English tour, English tour NOW). The rest of the day was mainly spent internetting and sleeping as most things were shut for Sunday. We did see rather a lot of Marching brass bands, which seems to be a big thing in Bolivia. In the evening it turned out almost all restaurants were shut, and the one that was open had no meat, no salad, and few beers. Maybe it was the blockade or just general Bolivian Chaos. The next day was out trip down the silver mine. An early start and we first went to get out protective gear. Then to buy gifts for the miners - fizzy drinks, coca leaves and dynamite, and some dynamite for ourselves too. We went to visit a plant where the process the ore, but then it was on up the mountain for the main event, descending the mine. This was a fairly hairy affair. The tunnel first went 400m into the mountain, generally not big enough for me to stand. Then we had to descent to the next level down, which basically involved crawling and sliding down a shaft. The air was full of dust making breathing very difficult, we had bandanas to cover our mouths, but that then became to hot. We pushed on a bit to see some miners at work using techniques seemingly unchanged for 200 years. They spent around a day making a long hole with a big chisel and hammer, and then stuck some dynamite in it. And repeat. After seeing this the two Irish girls in our group decided they'd had enough and got out of there. Our guide decided that without them we were up to a challenge and directed us to climb and slide down another steep shaft while he took the stairs round the corner. We made it and continued down another level and found some more miners working in the old way. It was then time to get out and lungs were really burning from the dust. Crawling back up you were just thinking of getting out, and thinking things would be easier if you weren't 6´2´´. We were very relieved to see the light at the end of the tunnel and cough and splutter our way out. We spent around 2 hours underground. Of course the miners do this every day... for 50 Bolivianos (less than 4 pounds). There are children as young as 12 down there, and if you start that young, life expectancy is 28. Starting at 18 you should make 40. Scary biscuits. After recovering we got to set our dynamite outside. There was a 3 minute fuse, so we all passed it round with the fuse burning for photos, and then boom! (In truth slightly disappointing to see but loud.) After a quick cheap and crappy lunch and well deserved beer we headed to the bus station on spec, knowing that the road to Sucre we wanted had been blockaded the day before.

Photos:

Main Plaza in Potosi with the mountain containing the mines in the background.


Down the mine.


Survived the mine, but yes that is a lit dynamite bomb.

Salyar de Uyunyi Trip

From San Pedro de Atacama I set out on a three day trip by jeep across the salt flats in the high Altiplano of southern Bolivia. There were five of us in our jeep along with out driver Theo, Alexandra and Isabela from Poland (travelling independently though), Jo Jo from Germany, Richard from England and me. We adopted the moniker 'Ill team' or 'team sickness' as quite a few of us were a bit sick, especially Richard with his spectacularly hacking cough. The first few stops were at salt lakes, Laguna Blanco and Laguna Verde or something like that, which were of course coloured white and green. You have to realise that although we were in the tropics we were up on the Altiplano, mostly at heights between 3600 and 5000m up, so it was well baltic during the day, and a scary -20 or something during the night. The height meant that we would also be prone to altitude sickness, Richard had a large stack of altidude pills, and I took some to ameliorate the effects, it was only after that he told me about the side effects; tingly fingers and a blue tinge to vision were definitely experienced, along with making any fizzy drink just taste plain weird. The next stop was as the hot springs, which were much smaller than those at Pucon, but at an ideal temperature. Unfortunately you had to get changed outside in the freezing balticness under your small towel, it was very tempting to remain in the water indefinately. Another stop was at the geyser or fumerole fields, these were nearly at 5000m and there was plenty of bubbling and steaming going on. We'd had a very late breakfast stop so we had lunch when we arrived at our final stop, at Laguna Colarado, a red and white salt lake with some flamingos in. There was time for a walk up to a viewpoint nearby over the lake in the afternoon. The accommodation was somewhat basic and staffed by grumpy Bolivian women in traditional dress. They did have nice soup though. In the evening we had a few bottles of localish wine, which was not at its best when chilled to about freezing, the bottle with a poem on it was the best, obviously infused with culture. Also here we first discovered that most Bolivians and most travellers seem to have been brought up in a barn, and didn't understant that leaving a door open when it was -20 or something outside is a bad idea. Next day we had breakfast and did what morning ablutions we could tolerate given that the bathroom floor had ice on it. Indeed one of our party managed to yank the toilet cistern of the wall, which actually made the dour local women laugh as they tried to stem the flow and immenent formation of an ice rink. This day we had a bit more driving and had a few more stops at viewpoints at lakes, and at some interesting rock formations. We also came upon some middle of nowhere villages that were pretty desparate looking, including where we stopped for lunch (nice soup again) and one where there seemed to be an abandoned station. When you see some photos you'll realise how barren the landscape was (moonlike?) with practically no vegetation. Though we did eventually see some vicuñas (wild llama like creatures). We also stopped for the obligratory changing of a flat tire. In the evening we had slightly better (more insulated) accomodation behind a village right on the edge of the main salt flat. We had a wander around this one donkey town, below cactus hill. The donkey was the only sign of life, thought there seemed to be some scattered llama legs randomly left around! That night we again had dinner, chilled red wine and coughing fits. There was curious incident in the night time with a somnambulent German finding his way into the 'wrong' bed, as with most things lets just put it down to the effects of altitude. On the final day it was on to the salt flats proper - just flat whiteness all around. This is a great oportunity for lots of silly photos as you can mess with perspective... cue giant penguin. The main stop was at "fish island" and rocky cactus strewn island on the salt flat where you can climb to the top, which is reasonably strenuous at altitude. At the top we found a sign commemoreating the 1st of August, and what do you know, it was the 1st of August. We got some more team photos of out sick team, taken by out official photographer from out rival team, christened team loser. It was then that we realised that there was some blood near the 1st of August sign where people had left offerings to Pachamama (the local mother earth god; our team managed to contribute a sachet of mayonnaise and a small necklace I got in a surprise package in Chile). Further investigations nearby revealed a decapitated and disembowelled sheep, obviously a sacrifice on this auspicious date. On a different note, throughout the trip we had been subjected to the one CD that Theo our driver seemed to own, on constant repeat. This consisted mainly of whiny love songs (in Spannish) which seemed quite unbefitting for a stocky aging Bolivian with half a mouthfull of teeth. The CD did grow on us eventually, especially certain tracks such as "¿Donde esta mi Padre?" which we adopted and tried to sing atop fish island. Upon decending we found the local celebrations in full swing, with some drumming and dancing, yes, a few of the bowler hatted local women were actually dancing with gringos and smiling! The local men had the beers out. All in the name of Pachamama, no doubt. Back in the jeep and the final stop was at a salt hotel (building made out of blocks of salt) where we again took some silly photos. Just the vast flat expanse of the salt flats that day was amazing. We got into Uyunyi -afternoon to discover that it was a shithole. The first thing we did was book our travel out, with JoJo and Izabella of to La Paz early evening, Alexandra back south that night, and myself and Richard heading to Potosi early next day. We had lunch, internetted then it was just about time for dinner. The dinner restaurant was interupted by a fairly dire singer coming in to serenade us and ask for a donation (not forthcoming). The highlight of the night however was the comedy translations on the English menu, when it finally came (service in Bolivia generally seeming a fairly grudging afterthought). It was hard to choose between ordering "Fried Pope, with Salad" or the undecipherable "Male Itch, without salad". We were pretty glad to leave Uyunyi the next morning, en route to the highest city in the world.

Los Photos:


Me at the Border.


Hot Springs!


Team ill at Plaza 1ro de Agusta on 1ro de Agusta, sheep blood not visible.


Look, I'm pure wee!


Arrrghhh, el pinguino grande!

Chile

Time spent: About 16 days roughly (In 2 spells, not counting the 3 hours or so on the Ushuaia-Rio Galleagos journey)

On budget/time: Spent a lot, but went on some really great tours, can hopefully make up for it in the Andean countries.

Lost/stolen: Lost my glasses in the hot springs near Pucon, D'oh!

Sound of Chile: They seemed to know their British Indie in various places, but it may always be remembered for Any Winehouse, Shakira and Sophie Ellis Bextor who all had their moments.

Taste of Chile: Lomo a la Pobre gets a mention; Poor mans steak, it comes with fried eggs and onions and chips. It's a no brainer.

Highlights of Chile: The Navimag and Torres del Paine definitely win. Santiago was a decent city, Valpairiso a bit of a let down.

Drink of Chile: Where to start, where to end? Cristal and Esciudo beers come in 1 litre bottles. Ron Silver, Long Island Ice teas, Pisco sour, and Frutilla Colada all get a mention. I didn't lower myself to try the local speciality in Punta Arenas - Fanta Schopp, which is a Fanta shandy. How wrong.

I liked Chile, it was pretty easy to travel and meet people, though some of the cities and towns were a bit scabby and uninviting. I had a great time on the bus tour down throught the lakes, though the weather was dire so we didn't get to do as many activities as we'd like (except drinking). When the Navimag was delayed two days by weather I was considering cancelling and missing out Patagonia. I'm so glad I didn't as the Navimag was great, as was Torres del Paine, and the weather, though not perfect, was pretty good.

Argentina

Time spent: about 2 weeks
bites:none
On budget/time: slightly over-budget, too many long expensive bus journeys
Lost/stolen: Nothing I think!
Sound of Argentina: Varied a lot. El Calafate was Reggae town, local band in Salta with Rasputin style singer was good for a change, excellent music in Clan Hostel BA.
Taste of Argentina: Steak!
Highlights of Argentina: Glacier was top, BA a lovely city.
Drink of Argentina: Got on to the vino tinto a bit here, had the odd Malbec, but on the beer front Quillmes was fine and Salta not so good.

Argentina was nice, easy to travel in, and as modern as you could want. I found it quite easy to meet people and had a good time here, barring a wobble when I was feeling sick in Salta. I enjoyed Patagonia, and spent a lot of time travelling (at least 4000kms) on very modern comfortable buses. Food and drink was very nice and the cities and towns were generally nicer than those in Chile I felt.

San Pedro de Atacama

The bus from Salta to San Pedro was Semi-cama again, and I was sat beside a nice Irish guy. The journey went fairly quickly, for the first time in a while it was actually a scenic journey, with views of multi-coloured hills and winding roads across the Andes. It featured a stop at an extremely windswept and barren customs post on the Chile-Argentina border. Here a vindictive customs official put the border stamp right on top of my Ushuaia fin del Mundo stamp, that I'd gone to the end of the world to get! What a scumbag! There was a strange juxtaposition of on-board films, with Rambo 4 followed by Sex in the City. We actually got to San Pedro much earlier than expected, and I found it to be a very pleasant little place. After some consideration I decided that since I'd lost a lot of days in Salta I would head straight out on the Salt flats tour the next morning, as many of the activities around San Pedro were similar to those included on the tour, and also Bolivia would be much cheaper! I checked into a hostel, where I was in a very social dorm full of anglophones. I got my tour booked and had dinner in a nice restaurant with an open fire in the town. As seems normal here a local band with pan-pipes passed through to do a couple of songs. The opening number of ¨Close to you¨was not what I expected. I went back to the dorm (which was a bit more like sick-ward, myself included), had a bit of a chat with people and then had a much needed early night in a very comfortable bed. It was a fairly early rise the next day to head off on the three-day tour across the salt flats in Bolivia - it was an hour in a minibus to the Bolivian border, where we got divided up into our jeeps for the rest of the journey.

Salta

I travelled to Salta on the full cama bus from Buenos Aires. This meant as well as a fully reclining chair I got my tea on the bus and a nice lunch in place by the road. The journey took about 20 hours and was very smooth. I was only goingto Salta because it was en route to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. I planned to stay maybe one or two nights depending when I could get the bus. Much to my dismay I found the next bus was 3 days later, and full, so I would have to spend 5 nights in Salta. I found a pretty mediocre (at best) hostel and spent the evening wandering around town feeling pretty sick and alone, but I did spoil myself and have the biggest steak I have seen in my life. Next day I was feeling pretty rough, too many nights on buses and late nights in BA probably took their toll. To see all the sights in Salta would take less than a day, and I certainly wasn't feeling up to any of the expensive adventure sports you could do nearby, or doing any of the expensive local tours which would involve most of the day on a bus again, so I resolved to take it fairly easy, get this blog up to date, do some reading and so on.

On the first day I went up the cable car to the mountain overlooking the town, did some internet, and sat in a cafe on the square drinking tea and reading the crappy books that were the only English ones available in the hostel bookswap. Had another nice huge dinner on my own on the second night, but was still sick and lonely and I hardly slept that night due to illness, noise and whatever else. The next morning I'd kind of resolved to check out and go somewhere else a bit more expensive and try to get a single room, but I checked out a few places and they were too expensive or full, so I gave up. Just more tea, books and internet for the rest of the day, but then I met a couple of nice young English guys in my dorm and time became much easier to pass! That night we went out for dinner along with a French guy, and went on and had a few drinks afterwards. Next day we decided to see the new Batman Movie, and after had lunch, internetted, and checked out some local museums first.

The first was about local high altitude archeology, and the discovery of three mummified children on top of a nearby volcano. One of the mummies was on display, which was good to see, but other than that I felt most of the displays didn't tell me what I wanted to know. There was also a small art museum, which grew on me a bit, but had nothing spectacular. Batman however was extremely spectacular! Afterwards we had dinner in a place with a gaucho dance show and then a band (not that we knew when we went in and got stuck in the front row seats) where I again ate obscene amounts of grilled meats. Afterwards we went back to the hostel and had a couple of beers and played some cards. On the last day in town there wasn't much left to do, so I followed the pattern of earlier days. Lunch was local 'Lorco', which contained slightly to many intestines for my liking, and dinner was a huge pile of empanadas before a few beers back at the hostel with another French guy. In the end Salta really grew on me as a town, it had some very nice buildings, squares, restaurants and bars, and spending the time there wasn't as hard as I feared it might be. My 7am bus to San Pedro involved a pre 6am rise as it was a bit of walk.