Saturday, November 24, 2007

Jaisalmer


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The evening after seeing Bikaner fort we arrived in Jaisalmer. This is the golden one (with Johdpur being blue, and Jaipur pink). We arrived in the evening in time to drive out to see the town at sunset from a viewpoint (see photo). Our hotel was very fancy on the outskirts of town, but had just been built and there seemed no other guests. I went for a swim in the pool, and when Sarah went for one later on I accompanied her to keep watch. This meant the six or so young waiters who were standing doing nothing in the restaurant stood looking the other way while stealing the occasional furtive glance across. The next day we had a local guide who showed us the old town: many people still live inside the fort among the narrow streets. He was very informative and we learned how to tell married from unmarried, Hindu from Muslim, and various castes apart by their dress. One of the highlights is the Jain temples in the old fort (see photo).

The old town itself is very dirty with open sewers and wild cows and dogs wandering everywhere: I found the smell overwhelming at points. There were also more havelis, in a less painted, more carved style, some close encounters with bats... and the obligatory uncomfortable trip to the carpet shop of the guide/drivers childhood friend/relative.

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