Sapa

Straight after getting back from Ha Long Bay I headed of on a trip to Sapa, in the Northern Highlands. This was a 3 night/2 day trip with overnight train journeys at either end and a homestay in the middle. The train arrived at Lao Cai, from where we proceeded in a minibus to Sapa, at the ridiculously early hour of 5 in the morning. Unfortunately it was fairly grey and misty when we got there. A quick breakfast of the ubiquitous beef noodle soup (Pho Bo) at a hotel and we were put with our guide in our groups. I had a very friendly group of 5, with a French father and daughter, who didn't speak much English, an English girl and a Dutch girl (who were traveling together). Our guide, Lan, was also nice. We set of on our trek accompanied by 7 women from local tribes in local dress (following us to attempt to sell us things). It was reassuring when one of them, sure footed as a mountain goat, slipped and fell on her bum when we got started on the path.

It was a pleasant walk with views of rivers, hills and rice terraces, just a shame about the weather. We passed through villages of the different Hill tribes, who have different languages and costume in different villages, and names such as the Red Zao and Black Hmong.

In the evening we got to our "homestay". I didn't know what to expect from a village homestay, but it was essentially like a B&B. It was purpose built sort of barn of building run by a family (The man of the younger generation was actually in hospital as a result of a motorcycle smash, we saw the remains of his helmet - a good job he was wearing it!). Unfortunately they made a critical mistake and forgot to deliver the food that we were to have, and by 6 we were starving and told the food might not arrive by motorcycle till 8 (remember the day started at 5am!). Fortunately the food arrived soon after 6 and was cooked by our guide in one wok on the open fire, and a huge feast it was. Afterwards we played some cards, including drinking games at the insistence of Lan (who was 5 months pregnant, fortunately we agreed to take her forfeits!) after the local rice wine had come out (not to bad actually!).

The next day was more trekking, on sometimes treacherous paths, with similar views and visits to villages. Although the villages had wooden huts with sometimes large families in each, there were still plenty of mobile phones and satellite dishes around, as well as relatively modern school buildings.

On the first day, when we'd shaken of the 7 local saleswomen, we picked up small girl following our party, repeating an incessant "You wanna buy from me?" over and over interminably. She latched on to Nicole after she made the mistake of asking the price of her keyrings, and she eventually gave in when the girl started crying! Everyone was very glad as it seemed she would follow us all day.

On the trip home I was on the top bunk on the train, and it's a good job I'm not claustrophobic as the ceiling was less than 6 inches above my face! Anyway, this was a very enjoyable trip, and has encouraged me to take homestay options in the future.



Our tour group ready for the weather.



Local women.



The path through the rice terraces.