Saturday, April 19, 2008

Bangkok

Everybody in South East Asia passes through Bangkok, sometimes many times. I got the train from Ayuthya, which was nice because I'd not been on one for a while and it was quiet and cheap as chips. I decided to stay on or near Khao San road, the imfamous backpacker ghetto. I found it not bad at all, with a nice atmosphere, but I think that was due to Songkran (Thai New-year/waterfight) which was happening at the time. Anyway, after a few full up or pricey Guest houses I found a cheap one, looked a bit shabby, but it's only to sleep in one night right? Afterwards I remembered a warning someone said about a hostel in Bangkok where they had to leave in middle of the night as the bedbugs were so bad. I then met some people I'd met earlier on my travels again (Another nice Canadian couple, and not one I've mentioned before!) who said they'd stayed one night there and checked out and gone elsewhere. Needless to say the next morning I was bitten all over. I did save 50p though.

Having arrived just before lunch the first day I set out to see the Grand palace and neighbouring temples. After one of my frequent hikes in the midday sun they would let me in shorts (contrary to what lonely-f'n-planet said) which left me a bit peeved, but found I could pay some money and borrow some funky trousers (more peeved) but lo and behold because it was Songkran it was free to get in, saving me few quid (about the only time I saved money in Thailand). And I really liked the grand palace, it was a real unexpected one for me, with a real wow factor (no-one I've spoken to really agrees!). Its got some very large temples, very richly decorated with gold and coloured mirrors, as well as a long mural which I really liked the style of. I'd give it a definite recommendation, especially if you get it on the free day! Another nearby temple complex (huge) had a ss reclining Buddha, and 37 billion other Buddhas, but my Buddha limit was passed.

In the evening I headed out to see what the atmosphere on Khao San road was like, got talking to a Swedishh guy and ended up having too many beers and getting involved in the massive waterfighting that was going on. We'd been sitting next to a group of Aussies who had taken up positions in a streetside bar with some snipers and heavy artillery. After being caught in the cross-fire a little we decided to arm ourselves and join in. I thought we were well behaved, in the main hitting only other people with waterguns, or people who spent to long on their hair. We didn't hit people with food or rucksack etc... we were nice (I say that all because the next few days people were not so kind when I had my bags, camera etc). Anyway, we soon became a target for every marauding gang of water-warriors and ended up soaked to the skin (when I got home I discovered I was still wearing my moneybelt with my passport etc... oh dear). I wasn't helped by the fact that my cheapo Thai water gun leaked half it's load back over me.

Anyway, I'm sure I've said enough about that, the next day I'd booked an evening bus down to Ko Lanta and since Bangkok isn't overly blessed with tourist attractions (I thought I'd give the ladyboys etc a miss!) I tried the museum, but it turned out everything was closed for Songkran. I was directed to see a big standing Buddha, which was reasonably impressive, but turned out that it was the start of an attempt by the entire population of Bangkok to get me to go to tailors and gem shops. After getting wise I did see the quite pleasant Golden Mount, despite a guy trying to tell me foreigners weren't allowed and attempting to send me back to the standing Buddha.

At this point I realised I'd lost my hat and thought the Khao San Rd might be the replace to get a new one. Turns out this wasn't an option, as the waterfighting that had seen sporadic outbursts throughout the city earlier in the day was in full flow there and I had to run through and still got pretty much soaked again, despite carrying my bag with my camera in it! I took refuge for the remainder of the afternoon in the restaurant/cafe next door to by scabby guest house where I could watch the water carnage going on outside safely (some people were set up with a bucket or two on one of the balconies above). By this time all the Thais were getting involved as it was Songkran proper (the previous night had been mainly foreigners. The dash from the guest house to the bus saw me get half soaked again, despite my rucksack. I wasn't enamored by the prospect of a 20 hour bus journey in wet clothes!

Photos:
Garuda figures in the palace.

Part of a very large fresco.
Huge reclining Budha.


Songkran revelers!

No comments: